Friday 1 August 2014

Return of the Lost Backpack Prodigy

I cannot believe it’s happened. But alas, it has. And I can’t explain it, I can only shamefully, with my head in my hands, describe how this happened.

We left Bangkok and our Ladyboy receptionist at 8am one fine sunny morning, to catch a bus. We had toyed around with the idea of journeying to Cambodia, as a pose to backpacking up and around Northern Thailand – Bridge said the temples were far nicer in Cambodia, and that since we were so close it would be well worth our while. We, of course, obliged. We were super excited to add it to our journey – the sort of spontaneity that backpacking is all about – and why I love it so much. So we decided to go.
I’m not going to write too much about crossing the Thai/Cambodia border…because it was really quite an interesting experience, and if anyone reading this has ever done it then I’m sure you know what I mean. However that is a piece of writing in construction for Travel Gen, but I will say that it was awful.

I’ve done a lot of long transport trips; boat/bus/train/car. All over the place. Some have been better than others. Anyone who’s been on long bus journeys knows that there are four VITAL things to consider when taking an international/interstate/overnight bus;
1.  The degree to which the seat declines
2.  How many sleeping pills/painkillers you have to knock yourself out with
3.  The amount of snacks you have
4.  Options for entertainment

Annie was ok company, I guess.


But anyone, back to the crux of the situation. We board the bus; 8am and turn up in Cambodia in a shamble state after a long day of hopping on and off buses, missed turns, meeting Dutch friends, malaria scares, riding a rocky bus through the countryside of Northern Thailand, crossing the border; problems with Visas, problems with money, problems with currency, before getting on our 5th bus to the border to be stamped and hustled through like cattle, before walking on foot across the border, before getting lost and walking through the mud and rain and poverty to safely arrive in the town nearest to the Cambodian border. It was an exciting, exhilarating, adventure - the one where you’re scared at how things are progressing because in this place there are no rules, there are bribes, there is conspiracy and my god is there corruption. I’ll leave out the Visa issues and the actual path crossing issues for another day, - mostly because I get a headache just thinking about it.


There was an Italian gentleman on our bus (we all to know each other very well, because the bus journey was advertised at ‘7 hours with a friendly stop for lunch’ when in actual fact it took around 12 hours and included multiple, hideous stops in the middle of freaking nowhere for varying amounts of time) who was super nervous throughout the whole journey. He was grabbing the driver, asking to see bus driver’s ID, and anyone who tried to get us to pay them money or to see our passports he wanted to know exactly who they were and why they were asking. At one point he directed our adventurous little group the wrong way because he was scared of where we going…and he grabbed our Dutch friends before going to the bathroom/going anywhere alone. We all had a giggle about it – bless his soul, but it turns out he was actually kidnapped in China, not that long ago, and literally held at ransom by these rebels that were taxi drivers. Awkward.
But srsly, who the hell gets kidnapped in China?! Must have sucked, but hey – the man has lived. SO. FUNNY.


Ok, so back to the original story of CG losing her possessions, I’m not sure quite where, but somewhere along the 12 hour day my purse; with around $150 AUD, all my credit cards, ID, ect had gone missing. We tracked it down to leaving it at the hostel, someone stealing it, the bus drivers going through ppl’s packs on the bus at one of our multiple stops where the bus mysteriously went ‘missing’ for a little while or whatever. Here we were, at the Thai border, when we were being processed for our Visas, and I’ve got nothing to my name. It was awful. I had no way of getting any dosh – cause my (clever) replacement bank card was also in my purse. As was my Aussie credit card. It was all a bit of a mess, you know, 2 weeks into the trip and all. So Ann sorted out the money stuff, whilst I had a little breakdown, puzzled over what went wrong, and how.

Then it hit me; I was what went wrong.

Le sigh. It was awful. I was convinced it had been lost, and it had cash in it…a lot of cash, and so I knew there was no way I’d get it back. To claim it on travel insurance (of which they pay up to $200 cash lost) you need a police report asap from the area in which it was allegedly lost/stolen, and I was now 9 hours away from Bangkok at the border.

Awesome.


Stressed, tired, and in the pouring rain, and frustrated with the lack of language translation, the hectic bus process and pretty much the situation in general, I then engaged in some minxy negotiating with these ‘Thai officials’ -  who weren’t even legit, because they weren’t officers, or immigration dewds. They were just guys working for the company that rip tourists off with Visas. But, more about that another time *massages temples*. Anyway, they were basically helping us figure out a plan as to how I could get my purse back, or how I could try to track it down.

CG was not optimistic at this prospect.

To be fair, they were actually all quite helpful, and I will never forget the kindness of the Thais in being so thoughtful and considerate. But then again, don’t speak too soon.
They helped me call the hostel to see if the purse had been found; in which it had (OMG YAY) and spoke Thai to our Ladyboy friend, who didn’t seem too phased by helping with anything tbh. I’m sort of skipping over the UTTER RELIEF AND GRATITUDE I felt when I realised it had been found…it was sort of long conversations between Thais and translations and return calls form a phone box…and I thought it was all a waste of time…just because, in what universe is stuff like that found? With all the money in it?! Mental. I’m a lucky girl, and I’m aware that with my track record with this kind of stuff, I don’t deserve to be.
The bus company runs buses from Bangkok to Siem Reap daily. They offered me to go back to Bangkok that night, leaving Annie in their ‘capable hands’ for the night. I’m talking a group of seedy older Thai men, living and working in a shabby shelter which also conveniently serves food and drinks, and their housing is attached. The place is on a random highway, in the middle of nowhere. Real rural Thailand. You can walk to the freeway and not see anything in either direction. Then they said that they’d bring the purse to the border free of charge, but Annie and I would have to ‘stay the night’ with them. They said it would be good business, we’d pay for the accommodation and food and stuff cause there was nowhere else in sight. But, it didn’t feel right. Sense the inverted commas. I was sitting in a hot office with a motor fan, five Thai men surrounding me, negotiating a plan with broken English. They had seedy smiles and smelt of sweat and bad intentions. Let’s just say that I would have rather lost the wallet then agreed to let Annie and I stay in their company.
Annie, btw, was outside getting her Visa processed and was blissfully unaware of everything I was dealing with.


The end solution was bartering a price for them to bring it over the border to Siem Reap, and just like the lost backpack in Austria, for me to meet a stranger at a random time in a random place in the dark and hope that things would work out alright.
This patterned storyline when I’m travelling is becoming all too familiar.

We bartered a price, and they seemed happy with the profit. It was the best solution; if Annie went on to Siem Reap and I stayed or went back to Bangkok that night, we would be separated and only in contact when we were both in a wifi hotspot. We still only had limited time and we decided to explore Cambodia as well, which made our schedule kinda tight. Instead of us both journeying back, or taking days on buses and re-doing entrance Visas, ect – it was the best option.

Still sceptical about it being returned with everything present – the money I am sure will be gone, but what’s a minx to do except accept it and move on.

Cambodian officials playing Candy crush on their smartphone at the border.

I had to pay them a decent sum of money, and agreed to pay the rest when it was delivered to me the next night.
After holding up our bus by around 20 minutes, we jumped on and continued our journey –still another 5 hours to go. Exhausted but still smiling, we allowed the Italian to sit with us and our Dutch friends Wouter and Ruben, as he was getting panicky after I told him my story with the wallet. The man shouldn’t be in Asia guys. Seems as if his experience has scarred him.

Anywho, we’ll see what happens with the purse.

Le sigh.

Very sceptical.

But it’s my own fault.

I can’t believe it was found.

I’m an idiot.


Classic Caty.

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