Monday 28 July 2014

I Keep Going to the River to Pray

Today something pretty sweet happened, and it’s probably going to sound kind of wanky, writing it on le blog, but it was truly amazing and Ann and I both left a part of our souls in Bangkok because of it, and we were speechless (and for Ann to be speechless...well, that says a lot). In another classic Moose Brooks situation, we headed to Golden Mountain one afternoon, as it had an alleged sunset that would blow your socks off. We got there on time, for sunset ya know, only to realise that it was closed. Classic.Then, on our way out as dusk was setting in, we passed a monk wandering through the undergrowth, and he beckoned us forward. Confused, we followed him. He didn't say a word, but led us to a prayer room at the base of Golden Mountain…and under his instruction, we took our shoes off, and took a seat inside. He invited us to pray with him and a room full of other monks and Thais. For lack of a better word and general ignorance, the ‘head monk’ read the readings and the whole room chanted along. I’m not sure if you’re familiar with prayer sessions (nor am I tbh), but they are harmonious, peaceful, sacred and very calming. For around about half an hour we sat there, watching rows and rows of Buddhists cross-legged on the floor in front of us praying. I am fearful of sounding like an ignorant, ill-informed white person, but all I can do is sum it up saying that it was absolutely mesmerising, and enchanting. Ann and I were asked to sign a book on  the way out, and I was flicking through pages and pages of names, to find not one Western name, nor a name written in English. We walked out shakily, speechless at the energy, the passion and the sense of healing and harmony that we had just been surrounded with; the deep chants echoing off the walls and settling deep into our ear canals, the pure focus of everyone in the room, and the complete and utter state of inner peace and tranquility. It was amazing, and we were super lucky and privileged to have been a part of it.



Le sigh, ah Bangkok



Perhaps you've seen the video. Bangkok is full of fish tanks that have hilarious signs trying to get you to self-sacrifice your feet for the fish.


"Mr fish can do massage"
"Let hungry fish eat your dead skin!!! They are hungry!!!"
"Fish can do massage pay and see for yourself!!!"

Khao San Rd nightlife....think The Hangover 2 kids, keep that in mind.



Our breakfast hangout




We wandered onto a wharf one afternoon in Bangkok, and soon enough as any band-swagglin, young, carefree backpackers might understand, around 15 minutes later we found ourselves on a boat. We took a boat ride around the river canals of Bangkok, seeing the parts of the city that many might usually bypass #myfavourite.



Houses built on rickety concrete slabs, we passed shelters that were literally falling apart. We saw lizards, fish and I swear to god snakes in the canals, and even feral dogs that were roaming around the rocks. I saw (what I can now identify and defend with all my might to ANNIE, who thought that I was talking smack)a HUGE water monitor, which was as I CORRECTLY DESCRIBED about the size of a small crocodile. I Googled those things man. They can be huge, up to 2.5 meters long to be precise. It was a monstrosity of a sea monster, hiding out  on the rocks. (And no the picture of the cute little lizard in the peep hole is not the monster I saw, nor the same species). Google them. You'll see. you'll all see.










Freaking awesome

We passed children swimming freely in the river, the brown mucky water full of fish and rubbish and a lot of other things that moved mysteriously under the current, and now – small children. I couldn’t help but think of how something like this would not go down at all in Western society AT ALL…kids’ immune systems couldn’t cope with it…and we’d all get seriously ill if we even set foot in the water. It’s like the Murray x100. But nonetheless these kiddos were having the time of their lives, swinging from vines, jumping from roofs of houses, ect. And they always stopped to wave and smile, and blow us kisses. These kis and their families were living in the slums…like, the worst poverty I’ve born witness to in my entire life. Yet, as always; so happy, so carefree…so joyful. It was excellent experiencing a different side of Thailand, away from the swanky clubs and market streets packed with Westerners. But it left a sour taste in our mouths.




Our French friends of whom we became a part of their Go-pro film...they said it would end up in Youtube one day. We never even learnt their names. 

It was the first time since arriving in Asia that I’d felt a true sense of guilt for being Western. I’m not going to sit here and preach values and morals and ramble on about being lucky or appreciating what we’ve got, or the opportunities we have access to. Or why one person is born into a world full of education, employment, wealth, and consumerism and others are not. We have the access to and the means to literally achieve anything we want. We have so much, yet require so little. Not to put a dreary spin on things, but it’s unsettling, it’s contemplative, and the reality of it is disturbing. 


Going Commando

I've had no clean underwear for a total of 3 days now. That is all.

Bartering in Thailand is an interesting concept, Ann and I started out being quite good at it tbh, before we met some pretty persistent tuk tuk drivers. Thailand is cheap anyway, but more often than not we can barter quite a good price. However, our naivety sometimes leads us astray, and we must do our best to remind ourselves that we are not invincible.


We had this FANTASTIC tuk tuk driver in Bangkok, who was an ultimate minx weaving in and out of traffic – and we swore that we wouldn’t dare rent bikes in Thailand as the traffic is mental. Our driver simultaneously also played poker on his smart phone whilst driving us around, and would stop and exclaim ‘Champion! Champion! I am a winnnnerrrr!!’ whilst fist pumping, whilst driving, whilst listening to our squeals of delight. At the end of the day we paid him before he asked Annie to marry him.
The tuk tuk drivers are cheeky here actually; some of them claim to need to get ‘coupons’ for cheaper petrol, and they drop you off conveniently for what they say is ‘only five minutes’ at a travel agent/dressmaker/jewellery store. Then they get commissions from the respective businesses for bringing tourists in. It’s so cheeky. The salesmen and women are SO persistent, and they really pressure you to buy…it’s like being under attack to buy anything or everything. I have difficulty saying no to things in general, so this was quite a challenge….but they were persistent. Like, REALLY badly. Annie got followed around a shop, had her arm grabbed by a woman who told her that she HAD to buy a piece because she was single mum and she had a son who needed to eat. It was intense. CG engages in her fair share of guilt trippin, but this was blatantly cruel. And made us all feel super uncomfortable. Our tuk tuk drivers have also dropped us off somewhere (if we’ve hired them for hours on end), randomly, and told us to ‘check it out’ when in actual fact it’s a parking lot and they needed to ditch us a for a bit so they could go and get some lunch. Absurd, but a lot of fun. So so much fun. We even had a ‘VIP’ tuk tuk once, with flashing lights and everything.

This tuk tuk driver acted like the VIP tuk tuk was about the be the best thing that ever happened to us. I seriously think he roped tourists into the VIP by promising them fame, love and money

We never actually took a cab. But we should of. They're pink for crying out loud. #instantregret

The Thai people are kind-hearted, caring and gentle...well, the most of them anyway. So many strangers have stopped to help us, or given us useful cultural insight. One man claimed he was a ‘police officer’ simply doing his duty for mankind by giving our free maps and providing random factual information about Bangkok to anyone passing by that would listen. Lovely. People have invited us into bars where we could wear special costumes and perform (dance, strut, take our clothes off, ect) and make money whilst doing so. We politely declined, but how very thoughtful of them.


We’ve seen a lot of temples in Bangkok, and the plan was originally for us to venture further north in Thailand to see more. Our plans have changed, (ofc, #backpackerlyf) but the temples here sure gave us a run for our money. We had one terribly rainy day, but it didn’t matter too much. We pulled on our happy pants and our cashmere cardigans in the 30 degree heat, and spent a few days wandering around temples and gardens. The temples are beautiful and peaceful. Buddhists have it right kids…peaceful way of life, living possessionless, enlightenment…

From my very minute knowledge of Buddhism, it’s a very wholesome way of living, and it makes you feel instantly relaxed and stress-free when you’re in the presence of monks or temples. We’ve had some quiet times in less-populated temples, simply reflecting, or lighting candles under Budda. We’ve also spent hours climbing the steep steps of the grand temples, nearly passing out in the process. That’s a great difference between Thailand and America actually. You see, (apart from the lack of temples in the US), Thailand literally doesn’t seem to care too much about OHS. In America, if the public tourist attractions looked anything like this, had any non-conforming stairs, or all dangerous bit were not roped-off to the ABOSOLUTE maximum, then you’d have every Johnny and his wife Pam suing them. 

#arty






Royalty

Lucky Buddha 



CG still smiling



Words cannot describe how steep this was




AD babin









Sacrificing











Random cat 







In Thailand, there are more unsafe things about climbing temples than fingers I have on my hands. It’s mental, but we dig it.We dig the temples, we dig the country. No warning, no one to complain to, just don’t fall or have the unsteady 500 year-old temple crumble beneath you. It’s sort of every man for himself up on the temples, and not a great day to go commando either, just quietly.